The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy: Twenty Years of Food Writing
- Book Review,
by --
From Publishers Weekly
The journal Petits Propos Culinaires, brainchild of food notables Elizabeth David, Richard Olney and Alan and Jane Davidson, came into being in 1979. The founders wrote articles as did prominent contributors like Claudia Roden, Harold McGee and Jane Grigson. This anthology covers a wide range of topics and will expand readers' understanding of cuisine, its history, ingredients and personalities. Carefully edited, the book is divided into such chapters as "Scoops and Distant Beachheads"; "Biographic, Literary, People"; and "Notes and Queries." The chapter "Culinary History" includes Claudia Roden's illuminating essay "Early Arab Cooking and Cookery Manuscripts" and Caroline Davidson's "Historic Kitchen Restoration," which will intrigue both cook and historian alike. Food passions of another sort are disclosed in the chapter "Exotica." Many recipes are included within the essays, and the one chapter devoted entirely to them includes Nathan D'Aulnay's Aubergine Gratin, Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz's Mole Poblano and Turkey as well as several strawberry recipes by Elizabeth David. Copyright 2002 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Booklist
This anthology offers readers a delectable selection of articles from the food history journal Petits Propos Culinaires. Few Americans have heard of this English-language magazine (it circulates chiefly within the rarefied world of food historians and academics in Britain and America), but adroit writers and reporters needing reliable and authoritative background information frequently cull its pages for source material. Alan Davidson, the journal's editor, has extracted past highlights--and what a banquet of prose it is! Virtually every page breaks ground with obscure yet fascinating stories of both common and exotic foodstuffs: long-cooked (6 to 18 hours) eggs; the origin and history of tapas; the artful designs of Parisian Christmastide galettes des Rois; the rise, fall, and resurrection of comestible snails; the disappearance of the spice long pepper; how to cook herons. This is a necessary purchase for any library collection that lacks a subscription to the journal and provides indispensable reading for devoted foodies. Mark Knoblauch
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved
Book Description
Wilder Shores of Gastronomy Twenty Years of the Best Food Writing from the Journal Petits Propos Culinaires Edited by Alan Davidson Foreword by Harold McGee In 1979, a remarkable culinary congress took place at Richard Olney’s kitchen table in London, where he was entertaining Alan and Jane Davidson. Stumped by an edict from his publishers at Time-Life, Olney was looking for an outlet to print a few recipes for later inclusion in his "Good Cook" series. The idea of a journal took shape, and with the help of Elizabeth David, a remarkable venture began. Sixty-seven issues later, Petits Propos Culinaires is still directing its critical eye at the obscurer corners of the food world. In addition to the formidable trio of Davidson, Olney, and David, such esteemed food writers as Jane Grigson, Claudia Roden, and Charles Perry became regular contributors, ensuring a spirited, erudite discourse with each issue. THE WILDER SHORES OF GASTRONOMY is the first-ever anthology of writings from this seminal publication. Hand-selected by Mr. Davidson, the anthology reflects the remarkable breadth of the journal. The arcane ("An Experiment in Bronze Age Cooking") rubs shoulders with the practical ("Photographers’ Cheesecake"), exotic ("Among the Yoruba Mushroom-Eaters"), and highly entertaining ("The Great Norwegian Porridge Feud"). The result is a highly eclectic collection of extraordinary food writing.
From the Publisher
•Spanning 20 years and including work by many of the world’s most influential food writers, WILDER SHORES is a concise, thoroughly enjoyable introduction to food criticism, a "Norton anthology of gastronomica."
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