Moon Handbooks: Nepal

Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award judges, April 1992
. . . the author's depth of understanding, sheer intelligence and fine sense of humor . . . set this book apart. The book's vast glossary, useful organization and forthright writing style breed confidence for the potential traveler.

The Bloomsbury Review, March 1992
Nepal Handbook seems to contain almost all the practical information a traveler might need for a short or extended trip to this beautiful land.

The Small Press Book Review, March 1992
An enterprising, curious traveler simply could not find a better guide to this fascinating country.

Nepal Traveler, March/April 1992
(Lonely Planet's) Nepal: A Travel Survival Kit has dominated its competitors for years but it may have to retrench (or be rewritten), for Nepal Handbook blows it out of the water. It covers the same ground, but there's a lot more meat, and a lot more insight.

The Independent, May 1992
With this excellent new paperback, Kathmandu author Kerry Moran covers Nepal so thoroughly and entertainingly that the book should be indispensable for anyone who wants to know anything about the country.

Book Description
This prize-winning guidebook to one of Asia's most fascinating and diverse destinations has won rave reviews since the first edition appeared in 1991. Written by a long-time American resident of Nepal, it provides thorough and complete information delivered in entertaining form. Nepal Handbook is packed with up-to-the-minute advice on practicalities like accommodations, restaurants, shopping, and transport. Turn to it for ideas on day trips to unspoiled areas of the Kathmandu Valley, as well as advice on outdoor adventures like trekking, mountain biking, and whitewater rafting.

From the Back Cover
Closed to outsiders until 1951, Nepal's exotic reputation comes from its incomparable blend of high mountains and rich culture. Lush jungles, broad valleys, and rolling hills are crowned by the frozen peaks of the central Himalaya, including eight of the ten highest mountains on earth. Whether you're planning a week in Kathmandu or months out on the trail, Nepal Handbook will take you into the heart of this Himalayan jewel. Plan a day-trip or mountain trek north and meet the people of the Hills-artisans, sadhus, Gurkhas, Sherpas, and dozens of other ethnic groups, each with its own language, customs, and beliefs. Nepal Handbook unveils the rich and ancient civilization of the Kathmandu Valley, and lovingly explores lesser-known destinations like Swayambunath, Patan, and Bhaktapur. Longtime Nepal resident Kerry Moran offers an appreciative and literate portrait of Nepal's kaleidoscopic personality, including: *A detailed trekking guide for both novices and seasoned trekkers, plus useful information on mountain biking, river-rafting, elephant safaris, and pony treks. *One-page mini-guides to Nepal's art treasures and crafts, with tips on selection and bargaining. *Money-saving recommendations for accommodations and dining: the best trailside lodges, a survey of Kathmandu's surprisingly reasonable luxury hotels, plus practical help with visas, transportation, packing, and getting around. *A savvy and thought-provoking introduction to Nepal's fascinating culture, geography, history, and social structure, with a wealth of entertaining details that make for great armchair reading as well. *Over 40 detailed maps of Nepal's diverse regions, including hiking trails, air routes, and out-of-the-way villages. *A carefully selected Nepali glossary, with useful phrases and tips for picking up the language.

About the Author
Kerry Moran received a Bachelor of Journalism degree from the University of Missouri-Columbia in 1981. Following a year in Paris and a stint as a newspaper editor in Northern California, she moved to Guangzhou, China in 1984 to teach English at Zhongshan University. The following year she traveled overland through Tibet to Kathmandu, Nepal, where she lived for thirteen years, working as a freelance writer and editor. Her articles have appeared in The Asian Wall Street Journal and a number of in-flight and travel magazines. Her Nepal Handbook (Moon Publications, 1991) won the 1991 Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism Award for Best Guidebook from the Society of American Travel Writers. Other books by Kerry Moran are Kailas: On Pilgrimage to the Sacred Mountain of Tibet (Thames and Hudson, 1989), Introduction to Nepal (Odyssey Publications, 1994), Hong Kong Handbook (Moon Publications, 1995), and The Kathmandu Valley (Shambhala, 1998).

Excerpted from Nepal Handbook (2nd Edition) by Kerry Moran. Copyright © 1996. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
From the 'Introduction': The kingdom of Nepal packs more into its 147,181 square km than most countries 20 times its size. Crowned by eight of the world's 10 highest mountains, Nepal's landscape compresses lush tropics and arctic tundra into an amazingly small span. Altitude ranges from near sea level to 8848 meters above it--the summit of Mt. Everest, the highest piece of the planet. This wild altitudinal variation fosters an incredible variety of ecosystems: steamy jungles and terraced valleys, forested hills, frozen peaks and high-altitude deserts. Tropical flowers frame views of not-so-distant snow peaks; tigers and rhinos roam lush jungles while less than 150 km north, snow leopards prowl barren mountain slopes. Whatever you say about Nepal is bound to be true--somewhere. The natural diversity is only the beginning. Nepal's rugged terrain has preserved a kaleidoscope of linguistic, ethnic, and cultural traditions rivaled by few nations. Dozens of different ethnic groups live among its hills, each with their own language, costumes, customs, and beliefs. The Kathmandu Valley, a fertile green bowl set in the midst of Himalayan foothills, is an oasis of magnificent art, and the home of the ancient and sophisticated Newar culture. Once isolated by suspicious rulers, Nepal only opened its borders to the outside world in 1951. At the time barely 200 Westerners had ever visited the country. Few had ventured far beyond the Kathmandu Valley. Today, over 350,000 tourists come to Nepal each year to explore the spectacular landscape, rich culture, and harmony of a traditional way of life. In terms of statistics Nepal is one of the least developed countries in the world, but it's rich with humor, warmth, and natural beauty. Visitors are drawn here by the spectacular landscape, but they leave remembering the friendliness of the people. From 'Boudhanath': The Great Stupa of Boudhanath rises above a huddle of buildings some seven km east of Kathmandu, its painted eyes gazing solemnly into the distance. Among the most important Buddhist sites in Nepal, Boudha draws a cross-section of Himalayan pilgrims: tall Khampas from east Tibet with big knives and red tassels woven in their hair; Ladakhi women with seed-pearl earrings and winged hats; Bhutanese in knee-length robes and argyle socks; and wide-eyed Bhotias from remote Dolpo and Mugu, wrapped in striped woolen blankets. Boudha is a magnet for Kathmandu's Tibetan community, as well as pilgrims. Their faith transforms it into a showcase of Buddhist practices--prayer beads, mantras, prayer wheels, prostrations. All day long, people walk clockwise about the stupa in ritual circumambulation. Crowds are greatest in early morning and at dusk, and on full- and new-moon days, when virtuous actions are believed to earn extra merit, and beggars line up to profit from the maxim. From 'Trekking': Nepal's unparalleled combination of natural beauty and cultural diversity reveals itself only to those who walk. Practically the whole northern section of the country is untouched by roads: in order to explore it you must trek. The greatest inducement is the Himalaya. With eight of the world's 10 highest peaks, Nepal is loaded with spectacular mountain vistas. Rather than gazing at them from a distance, trekkers walk and live amid the mountains for weeks at a time. The leisurely pace creates a sense of intimacy with the land that goes far beyond that of a day hike or a wilderness weekend. Mountains may be the main lure, but there are surprises along the way. There are people amid this spectacular scenery -- all sorts of people, living in a world virtually untouched by modern development. A trek can thus serve as an eye-opening introduction to how our ancestors lived not so long ago -- and to how much of the world still lives. Trekkers find ultimately that trekking is not just about the landscape: they learn as well about the world, about other people, and about themselves. As trekking makes the transition from cult to big business, trekkers' expectations become increasingly wilder. Herewith a few surprises many discover only on the trail. Trekking is walking: Many organized trekkers are shocked at the effort required to trek, having been lured by seductive advertising into what they discover (too late) is a very physical enterprise. Some clients don't realize they'll be going to high altitudes, and join because "cruises are boring." Or they want to see Everest, but don't realize they have to walk three weeks to do so. If you've never hiked a single day up and down hills, try it before signing up for weeks of it. On the other hand, trekking shouldn't frighten off anyone who is reasonably fit and healthy. It's demanding, but you can walk at your own pace, and there's an undeniable satisfaction in feeling your body do what it was made to do: move. Trekking is a cultural rather than a wilderness experience: You could choose a remote trail avoiding populated areas, but it would be a shame to miss Nepal's people. The amount of personal interaction is dictated by the individual. Organized treks are often maligned for the limited cultural interaction they provide, but many independent trekkers have even less contact with Nepalis. More than any other factor--age, physical fitness, type of trek, money spent, route--your trekking experience depends on you. Finally, trekking is a process rather than a destination: Trekking should not be a constant forced march. It's all too easy to fall into walking-machine mode. Consciously remind yourself to stop at teashops and shady chautaara, admire the views, and splash in a stream. The walking is a way to link these moments, not the reason in itself. Walking and nothing but, day after day, provides illuminating insights into one's own mind and how seldom it's here in the moment. Even on the trail, thoughts race ahead to the next meal, the night's stop, the return to Kathmandu. Seldom do we delight in the pure present, but these moments seem to come increasingly easily on the trail, as mind and body synchronize.


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