Surf Science: An Introduction To Waves For Surfing

From Book News, Inc.
This text is a reprint of the 2002 publication in which Butt and Russell (both U. of Plymouth, UK) explore the science of waves from a surfing point of view. Written for surfers, the text does not require a science background but does contain enough technical material to also be suitable for first-year undergraduates in oceanography and surf science. Coverage includes the life of a wave from its birth in an oceanic storm to its dissipation on shore, and scientific aspects of surfing, including surfing in the storm, local coastal winds, water temperature, tides, world wave climate, and wave forecasting.Copyright © 2004 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR

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Book Description
Have you ever wondered where waves come from? What makes every one different, why some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, waves come in sets of six and others in sets of three, and what factors affect the behavior of a surfing break? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its second edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks and will help you learn how to predict surf. You don't need a scientific background to read it--just curiosity and a fascination for waves.

About the Author
Dr. Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and postdoctoral research fellow at the University of Plymouth, England. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines and runs a wave prediction website. Dr. Paul Russell was twice European Surfing Champion and is now reader in coastal dynamics at the School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth. Richard (Rick) Grigg pioneered big-wave surfing on the North Shore of O'ahu, Hawai'i, and is now professor of oceanography at the University of Hawai'i.


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This text is a reprint of the 2002 publication in which Butt and Russell (both U. of Plymouth, UK) explore the science of waves from a surfing point of view. Written for surfers, the text does not require a science background but does contain enough technical material to also be suitable for first-year undergraduates in oceanography and surf science. Coverage includes the life of a wave from its birth in an oceanic storm to its dissipation on shore, and scientific aspects of surfing, including surfing in the storm, local coastal winds, water temperature, tides, world wave climate, and wave forecasting. Annotation © 2004 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR


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