How to Read a French Fry: And Other Stories of Intriguing Kitchen Science

FROM OUR EDITORS

The Barnes & Noble Review
There are a number of good books that have tackled food science already. Some do so elegantly, like the vintage Cooking with Pomiane, while others, like Harold McGee's On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, take a more scholarly approach. Russ Parsons's How to Read a French Fry surpasses them all by combining elegance and scientific knowledge with a lively enthusiasm and more than 100 good recipes.

Why does a little mustard help the emulsion of a vinaigrette? Why can you stick your hand in a 450-degree oven, but not in 212-degree boiling water? Why is the classic American pie dough so much trickier to make than a traditional European short crust? "Cooking," says food editor and author Russ Parsons, "is full of questions that science can help answer -- questions you might not have even thought about asking, but questions that can make you a better cook."

Parsons is eager to teach us about the mysteries of meat and heat, the second life of fruits and vegetables, the complexities of frying (deep and shallow), and the transformation of tough starches like beans into tasty little pillows. Each chapter addresses a basic process, slips in a number of tips and techniques to take advantage of the science, then follows with recipes that exemplify the process. The chapter on eggs, for example, ranges from the science behind hard-boiled eggs, hollandaise, and mayonnaise to tips on hot and cold emulsion sauces, and recipes for Green Goddess Salad and Chocolate Pots de Crème. It's a delicious course for cooks of any level. (Ginger Curwen)

FROM THE PUBLISHER

Widely singled out for its unique approach and witty, readable prose, How to Read a French Fry explores the fascinating science behind such ordinary cooking processes as mixing, frying, roasting, boiling, and baking. As he goes, the award-winning Los Angeles Times food journalist Russ Parsons slips in hundreds of cooking tips, provocative bits of trivia, and touches of humor that make his lucid explanations go down smoothly. The result is a book that "serves as an introduction to the high-level science" (Boston Globe) while "help[ing] home cooks hone their skills" (Bon Appetit). With more than 100 recipes, from Tuscan Potato Chips and Crispy-Skinned Salmon on Creamy Leeks to Chocolate Pots de Crème, this cookbook is "destined to be stained and dog-eared" (San Francisco Chronicle).

SYNOPSIS

Parsons, a food columnist with the Los Angeles Times, describes the science behind elemental cooking techniques such as baking, boiling, frying, and roasting. Each chapter concludes with a list of general cooking tips. Over 100 recipes are included. Annotation ©2003 Book News, Inc., Portland, OR

FROM THE CRITICS

Publishers Weekly

In this unique book, Los Angeles Times food editor Parsons combines complex science (rendered accessible to lay readers), workable cooking techniques, and excellent recipes. Each chapter addresses a specific culinary-scientific process (e.g., deep-frying, the secret post-harvest life of fruits and vegetables), provides a list of rules to follow therein, then offers a range of recipes that use the technique in question. In a chapter titled "From a Pebble to a Pillow," for example, Parsons explains the various ways in which grains, beans and other starches cook. He clears up myths about cooking beans and explains what makes an apple "mealy" (it's the pectin). The chapter ties up with some guidelines for preparing starch-thickened sauces, pasta, etc. Recipes include Smoky Cream of Corn Soup, a flour-thickened concoction, and a Gratin of Sweet Potatoes and Bourbon. The recipes are never gimmicky but are genuinely appealing, for instance Smoked Tuna Salad in Tomatoes and Lavender Fig Tart, and they are evidence of how a handful of techniques can turn out diverse results. Scientific information is handled in a light tone with plenty of examples. With his analyses of frying, roasting, and other processes, Parsons proves that the unexamined dish is far less rewarding than the meal we understand. Copyright 2001 Cahners Business Information.

Library Journal

Award-winning journalist and Los Angeles Times food editor Parsons offers this delightful book that is one part kitchen science, one part cookbook. Ever wonder why onions make people cry, or why some potatoes are better for boiling rather than baking? The author answers these questions and discusses other basic issues like cooking processes (e.g., frying, emulsifying, and roasting). Using the premise that an understanding of the basics enables people to become better cooks, the book uses science to explain process. It then demonstrates with more than 100 recipes, ranging from macaroni and cheese with green onions and ham to apricot-almond clafoutis. While the author's conversational tone simplifies complex scientific processes, it sometimes makes it difficult to glean information; thankfully, each section contains lists of cooking tips and advice for quick reference. Recommended for public and academic libraries. Pauline Baughman, Multnomah Cty. Lib., Portland, OR Copyright 2001 Cahners Business Information.

Booknews

Parsons (the food editor of the ) has written a book that explains in detail the science behind food and its cooking. We learn about such things as gluten, water, and cellulose, what they do and why, and how to make the essential elements work for us in the kitchen. Many recipes are included, which are undoubtedly tasty, though they refer to scientific details we've never bothered to wonder about. Annotation c. Book News, Inc., Portland, OR (booknews.com)

WHAT PEOPLE ARE SAYING

Russ Parsons not only unravels some of the intrigue of the kitchen but, in entertainment fashion, shows us why this understanding matters. The great recipes are a bonus and make How to Read a French Fry invaluable.  — (Mark Bittman, New York Times columnist and author of How to Cook Everything)

Mouthwatering recipes, fascinating information and charming commentary.  — (Paula Wolfert, author of Mediterranean Grains and Greens)

Russ Parsons knows that the best cooking comes from a genuine understanding of basic techniques, and he illuminates them here with lively writing and smart recipes. This is an unlikely creation: a kitchen-science book that makes you hungry, and it's also a cookbook that teaches, from an authority on food and cooking.  — (Thomas Keller, chef and owner of the French Laundry and author of The French Laundry Cookbook)