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Fried Chicken: An American Story

AUTHOR: John T. Edge
ISBN: 0399151834

SHORT DESCRIPTION: Edge weaves a beguiling tapestry of food and culture as he takes readers from a Jersey Shore hotel to a Kansas City roadhouse, from the original Buffalo wings to KFC, from Nashville Hot Chicken to haute fried chicken at a genteel Southern inn. And,...

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         Editorial Review

Fried Chicken: An American Story
- Book Review,
by John T. Edge


From Publishers Weekly
Why did the chicken cross the continent? To get to the buttermilk-bathed, Creole-fried, mojo-marinated recipes, of course. Edge (A Gracious Plenty) directs Ole Miss's Southern Foodways Alliance, which studies the South's diverse food cultures, and he dishes up a combo plate of cookbook/travelogue, describing stopovers on his poultry pilgrimage across America, tasting and testing. His quest took him from New Orleans to Nashville (the "fiery goodness" of Prince's Hot Chicken Shack) and from L.A. to Buffalo (home of Buffalo wings). He focuses on individual cooks and family-run enterprises, so KFC and other chains get scant space. Instead, chapters close with regional recipes (e.g., Cape May's Onion-Fried Shore Chicken). Fryer facts flow like gravy, along with pop culture references, and there's an outstanding chapter recounting how celebrated Creole-Soul cook Austin Leslie inspired the Emmy-winning CBS series Frank's Place (1987). Edge concludes that the top dishes are found "where the cooks monkey the most with the birds." Throughout, he shares evocative descriptions of people and places, and designer Stephanie Huntwork's attractive gingham graphics and place-mat pages add a down-home feel. This clever, witty little book offers a heaping helping of chicken facts, and the appendix listing 34 "favorite chicken houses" in 14 states is a fitting finale. Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.


From Booklist
In this first volume of a projected series covering essential American dishes, Southern food expert Edge addresses fried chicken. Although fried chicken has deep roots in American cultural history, few people today have tasted the real thing. Nowadays, Americans drive to the nearest outlet to get a bucket of their extra-crispy bird. Edge has traveled the length of the country and has found that there are still cooks who proudly fry chicken in their out-of-the-way restaurants according to traditional methods. Edge's text dwells on both the history and sociology of fried chicken, its popularity on both sides of the South's racial divide, and its variations among ethnic immigrants. Thus, in addition to traditional Southern fried chicken, the author provides recipes for an Italian-inspired chicken, complete with garlic and herbs, and for a Korean-American dish with fiery hot dipping sauce. No recipe is excessively complicated, but deep-frying equipment and skills are rarely standard in American home kitchens. Mark Knoblauch
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved


Book Description
What could be a more fun and delicious way to celebrate American culture than through the lore of our favorite foods? That's what John T. Edge does in his smart, witty, and compulsively readable new series on the dishes everyone thinks their mom made best. If these are the best-loved American foods-ones so popular they've come to represent us-what does that tell us about ourselves? And what do the history of the dish and the regional variations reveal?

There are few aspects of life that carry more emotional weight and symbolism than food, and in writing about our food icons, Edge gives us a warm and wonderful portrait of America -by way of our taste buds. After all, "What is patriotism, but nostalgia for the foods of our youth?" as a Chinese philosopher once asked.

In Fried Chicken, Edge tells an immensely entertaining tale of a beloved dish with a rich history. Freed slaves cooked it to sell through the windows of train cars from railroad platforms in whistle-stop towns. Children carried it in shoe boxes on long journeys. A picnic basket isn't complete without it. It is a dish that is deeply Southern, and yet it is cooked passionately across the country. And what about the variations? John T. Edge weaves a beguiling tapestry of food and culture as he takes us from a Jersey Shore hotel to a Kansas City roadhouse, from the original Buffalo wings to KFC, from Nashville Hot Chicken to haute fried chicken at a genteel Southern inn. And, best of all, he gives us fifteen of the ultimate recipes along the way.


About the Author
John T. Edge, whose work has appeared in Gourmet and Saveur and has been featured in Best Food Writing for the last three years, is also the director of the Southern Foodways Alliance at the University of Mississippi. His many books include the James Beard Award- nominated cookbook A Gracious Plenty, and he is a finalist for the 2004 M.F.K. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award from the James Beard Foundation.


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         Book Review

Fried Chicken: An American Story
- Book Reviews,
by John T. Edge

Fried Chicken: An American Story

FROM THE PUBLISHER

With Fried Chicken and Apple Pie, writer John T. Edge launches a series of unforgettable short books on selected icons of American food. In it, he celebrates the foods that conjure childhood and comfort, that compel us to hit the road in search of the greasy grail, that call us to the kitchen - the ones everybody thinks their mom made best. In doing so he discovers the story of America itself, using food as a lens through which to view history and culture and reveal a rich social landscape.

FROM THE CRITICS

Tobin Henshaw - The New York Times

John T. Edge, a veteran food writer, spent the better part of a year debunking one of the South's most persistent myths, that ''to know about fried chicken, you have to have been weaned and reared on it in the South.'' In Fried Chicken: An American Story, the first in a series of books that will celebrate ''America's iconic foods,'' he's fairly successful, thanks largely to some strategically placed Serbs (in Ohio), Koreans (in Seattle), buttermilk enthusiasts (in Los Angeles) and -- gasp -- wing nuts (in Buffalo).

Publishers Weekly

Why did the chicken cross the continent? To get to the buttermilk-bathed, Creole-fried, mojo-marinated recipes, of course. Edge (A Gracious Plenty) directs Ole Miss's Southern Foodways Alliance, which studies the South's diverse food cultures, and he dishes up a combo plate of cookbook/travelogue, describing stopovers on his poultry pilgrimage across America, tasting and testing. His quest took him from New Orleans to Nashville (the "fiery goodness" of Prince's Hot Chicken Shack) and from L.A. to Buffalo (home of Buffalo wings). He focuses on individual cooks and family-run enterprises, so KFC and other chains get scant space. Instead, chapters close with regional recipes (e.g., Cape May's Onion-Fried Shore Chicken). Fryer facts flow like gravy, along with pop culture references, and there's an outstanding chapter recounting how celebrated Creole-Soul cook Austin Leslie inspired the Emmy-winning CBS series Frank's Place (1987). Edge concludes that the top dishes are found "where the cooks monkey the most with the birds." Throughout, he shares evocative descriptions of people and places, and designer Stephanie Huntwork's attractive gingham graphics and place-mat pages add a down-home feel. This clever, witty little book offers a heaping helping of chicken facts, and the appendix listing 34 "favorite chicken houses" in 14 states is a fitting finale. Agent, David Black. (Oct. 11) FYI: Putnam will simultaneously publish Edge's Apple Pie. Copyright 2004 Reed Business Information.

Library Journal

Follow food writer Edge, whose work has been featured in Gourmet and Saveur magazines, as he eats his way across the United States in a charming new series that "celebrates America's iconic foods." Part travelog, part cookbook, part social history, and part lore, these first two entries explore the origins of fried chicken and apple pie and their importance in American culture. Through visits to local restaurants, festivals, and farm stands, Edge met cooks and bakers who shared their secrets and provided stories and recipes about these foods that are rich in American tradition. A Southerner, he looks past his region for an explanation of our connections to certain foods; in Fried Chicken, he examines traditional preparation while exploring the fried chicken that recent immigrants prepare, such as Italian American fried chicken courtesy of an Indian immigrant living in Chicago and Serbian American fried chicken prepared in Ohio. In Apple Pie, he travels across the country, collecting 15 recipes for pie along the way-all of which are included. Forthcoming titles in this series include Donuts, Hamburgers, and French Fries. Witty and entertaining, these two volumes are highly recommended.-Pauline Baughman, Multnomah Cty. Lib., Portland, OR Copyright 2004 Reed Business Information.

WHAT PEOPLE ARE SAYING

Lee Smith

John T. Edge is pure fun-with his great sense of humor, insatiable enthusiasm, original insights and careful commentary, he's one of the world's best companions. I'd run off with him anytime. — New York Times bestelling author of The Last Girls and Saving Grace

Rick Bragg

Edge takes one of my favorite subjects on earth and writes the extra-crispy hell out of it. ... He makes me wish he'd been along for the ride in his reporting. As always, it is the way he welds the food to the cooks, to their life experiences and homeplaces, that makes this book a wonderful read. — New York Times bestselling author of All Over But the Shoutin', and Ava's Man

Jeffrey Steingarten

John T. Edge is among our finest... I've been waiting for this series... knowing that my kitchen will soon be humming, my mind buzzing, and my pleasure glands uncontrollably salivating. — New York Times bestselling author of The Man Who Ate Everything

We've just gotten in two more great quotes for John T. Edge; I'm also including the ones we had already so that you have them all in one place. — Jennifer

John T. is the voice of contemporary southern food. His work... is like Ken Burns efforts to preserve the tradition of baseball through his documentaries or Steven Spielberg's efforts to remember the Holocaust through his movies. — Tyler Florence


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